Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

12 January 2016

how my writing discipline evolved to influence my art and music

my daughter scolded me for not spending more time journaling. i told her i love to journal and had kept journals for years, even telling her there were a box of them for her to inherit one day. having never watched me journal, she did not believe this was something i did regularly (typically i do it in bed or while traveling). she advocated journaling as a form of therapy. so today's blog is super personal by request.

after my conversation with her, i thought about my writing process. lately, i write for school or for speaking engagements, still indulging in writing poetry & essays for pleasure. my daughter said this kind of writing didn't count as the therapeutic journaling she wants for me because it is all written for an audience. I suppose she never realized that the things I write for myself don't get shown to other people usually, because it has already reached its intended audience - the page.


writer in the bathtub - photo by teresa tsai
When I was a teenager, I spent at least an hour a day writing. Typing out things for the outside audience on a selectric typewriter. Scribbling furiously in my confessional journals with special pens with lovely ink. I sang in church growing up, often onstage. I was already writing for people other than myself before graduation. Winning a poetry contest by turning in the poem I thought that audience would like the best, pastoral couplets for rural judges. The poetry that I enjoyed writing more was reflective of my youthful mood. I sought out open mic poetry nights before I was old enough to drink. I hid out in the school library reading about Kerouac and find had to drive over an hour to find a bookstore that carried his work. Like Kerouac, I wanted to find other writers to spend time with and experience the bohemian lifestyle that appealed to me.

However, writing had already become a "job" by the time I was 15 or 16. Working for the school paper meant selling ads, typing and editing other people's work and negotiating topics with administrators and advisors. Senior year I was managing editor, but I spent weekends in the city seeing bands, art house movies and drinking coffee at midnight to hear other poets wail. Going to college, I immediately joined the paper as a copyeditor. My 2nd or 3rd article was edited in a way that gave it bias and I stopped writing for them. The public backlash of having an article misinterpreted with your byline on it as author was a powerful lesson.

I started carrying a notebook around in jr. high, even a spiral in my back pocket would do the trick. To this day, it is incredibly rare for me not to have ink and paper around. Even with the advent of the online cloud and devices, there are still times I really need the smell of ink on good paper.


In the last 20 years, I have made a deliberate move to writing online. Yahoo had Briefcase which was an early cloud server. This allowed me to store writing samples online or the first time. The typewriter got left behind and storing new work became print-outs of cloud based poetry and essays. I told myself that writing online instead of in my books would make me a more disciplined writer, since I could resume that hour a day writing structure I missed. With online writing, my employer wouldn't ask what my book was and it would be harder to lose. Stealing time from my workday during lunch, I would write poetry & letters to out of state friends. I still went to coffee houses; bookstore readings and writing workshops just to keep growing and meeting like-minded others.
 

Around then, I started a postcard mail art exchange with Aaron Barker before the millennium. He was a great accomplice for testing the limitations of the USPS because (like me) he was both writer and visual artist. Post office had no problem with massive stapling, oddball shapes/thickness/materials. However AKBarker won the game the day his graphic sexual images out graphic'd the last ones i tried to send through the mail & the post office put his in a plastic wrap where only the address showed through for the sake of decency (lol).
(The text on this handmade postcard from me to Aaron is an Iman quote)
"The way I was raised and
lived my life in Africa, I was never told I was beau-
tiful. Never. If anything, I thought of myself as aver-
age. The boys looked at my cousins and the girls
in our family more than me.
In my heart I was
vulnerable and had low self-esteem
about my
own beauty, but not about who I was as a person."
I suppose my writing started as very personal, solely confessional and evolved into different types of work for different audiences. I may have access to an endless well of love and creativity, but like all mortals I am limited in the time I have to produce work, to create.

PERFORMANCE ART and SPOKEN WORD

So the focus on journaling grew like tentacle vines into many different shapes. I had a toddler at home. I got/gave cool postcards in the mail & hopefully brought a smile to the mail carrier's face. My boyfriend at the time, Matthew curated art events like I did and made electronic music in our house. My dear friend Frank Topp was always down for spontaneous music making. Hours were spent at each other's house making beats & rhyming over them. Our friend Brian Roberts was a drummer and there is a rare old recording of my early poetry with just him doing percussion. Back then recordings were done on DAT tapes or 4 track recorders that had to be converted onto a cassette or cd. Music and art was a huge part of our everyday lives.


Being a writer kept me employed in office work that helped me feed my kid and was a lynchpin to getting my foot into several job interviews. After work, I wanted to create music. Lots of girls wanted to sing for music producers, but I was a poet who came with her own material. Most of the producers I worked with over the years were friends or introduced to me by a friend. Before my daughter was school aged, I did a lot of live performances. I performed with a Quartet a few times at Reid Robinsons' old Johnny Rocket Coffee Shop (the first internet cafe in dallas) that included an upright bass, kit drummer and synth guy who did all the keys and sound engineering stuff.


I would sing over dj sets around town, reading poetry over their beats & improvising rhymes at times to match the mood of the music. Lots of my friends played music and it was nice to be invited to join them live on the mic. A friend invited me to Hot Springs, Arkansas for a weekend and there at Maxine's Puzzle Bar I had a very new experience.


We were having a drink at the bar and the band was setting up gear for their performance. There were probably only 20 people in the entire place. Someone on stage said, "does someone want to talk on this mic so I can do soundcheck?" I laughed and jumped on board. I read one of my poems from memory and probably sang an old jazz number by Sarah Vaughn.  I bounced offstage, back to my seat at the bar and an older lady came up to me. She hands me a twenty and I said "what is this?"

She said, "This is my bar and I pay my talent." Then she pretty much walked off after I thanked her. I was astonished. In a lifetime of writing, that was the first time I was paid to perform. In church, in coffee houses, in nightclubs, in print - none of the proceeds had ever landed in my hand. It was just something I did as a natural extension of my writing process for fun and creative exercise. Writing has always been like breathing for me, something almost involuntary.



Things seemed to evolve soon after. Reid asked me to play a few gigs with one of his bands that usually included percussionist Domingo Leija and avante-garde visual artist & didgeridoo player Thor Johnson. If there was any income, Reid was very fair about it and I loved the artsy scene we usually played for.

Frank got us a weekly residency at a nightclub club called Eclipse Sol next door to the old Arcadia theatre. It was our 2 resident djs, Frank and my high school friend Matt Norman along with a wildcard dj that rotated every week. I sang over all of them and it was a great way to make music on monday and share my poetry. It also led me to meet some really interesting musicians and producers, however we were not paid anything but free drinks. Free drinks on a school night is not the best idea btw. So I learned about taking pre-performance naps and cutting myself off after a few drinks, just so I could function the next day at work.


During all this time, I still scribbled. I kept a journal in my car for red lights. I did "automatic writing" in the dark at concerts & movies that were especially inspiring (transcribing that stuff later is a beast lol).  I played surrealist writing games with friends. I cut up my own words and glued them back together. Frank used my recorded laugh on a track he did for Fair Park records called "Celestial Park." It was just a sample and I am not credited on the record, but I was super giddy to be recorded on vinyl and literally hopped 
around for a week.



So when I started making electronic music with others, it was a relief to most producers that I didn't mind being edited. Having effects put on your voice or having your poetry cut to pieces can be hard for some people, but as long as my content kept the same meaning I didn't mind and found it fun.

After a year at Eclipse Sol, I told Frank I needed a change. I started worrying about legacy stuff for my kid. What if I got hit by a car? How would she know why I had spent the time on the things I believed in? What would remain? What tangible thing could she hold in her hand? Having a residency on a Monday was taking its toll on me with a day job and a kid at home I'd rather be with. Our night was pretty popular and I had my first legit stalker who tried to follow me out to my car or just showed up waiting for me there. Dude kept showing up to the other events I threw as well, asking for autographs and eventually getting difficult enough that I had him thrown out of a couple of places for being too pushy/scary. 


I got into the habit during that period of introducing myself to the bouncer or security guard at any place I was supposed to play at the beginning to ask for an escort to my car after I did my thing. The guard would smirk if they hadn't seen me perform before. Post-performance after the energy exchange with the audience, the guards understood why i needed a friendly walk to my car afterwards. That part was manageable, but the balancing a day job with night gigs was getting to be too much though.

More importantly, my desire to create more concrete work became undeniable.


WORDS & RECORDINGS (aka LYRICS)

I had a stack of journals in a box moving everytime I did. I had taken the trouble to type out poems or print out lyrics so I could hold them in my hand like a security blanket. What good would a residency be to my daughter when she was old enough to understand why mommy wasn't home monday nights?


Again I realized everything boiled down to time management. We humans only have so many hours in a day. I decided if I could sacrifice 8 hours a month (2+ hours each monday). then what if I redirected that same amount of time in a more focused way? So I pulled out my calendar. I blocked off 4 hours on one saturday each month for MUSIC. I blocked off another 4 hours two weeks later that month for ART. so if nothing else, I could progress my art and music a little bit at a time each month and keep momentum. It worked remarkably well.


The writing was happening every day anyways in bits and pieces and sometimes long luxurious writing sessions in my pajamas. But focusing the time, gave me permission to hide out and work every other saturday on something that fed my soul. The day job fed my body, the moonlighting fed my soul.


On the year anniversary we announced I was giving up Eclipse Sol. A year later, I had my first release on vinyl. 


Patchen Preston was introduced to me by wonderful Frank. He is an amazingly talented but reluctant producer and sound engineer. My original poem "Unnaturalism" is about the beat poet Neal Cassady. Frank asked me to record it as lyrics in Patchen's closet in Deep Ellum, which may have been barricaded with a mattress as added sound proofing. Years later I met Patchen's dad, the photographer & filmmaker Jon Preston at a party and I mentioned I had made a song with his son. He replied "The one about Neal Cassady? its in my car right now! I love that one." I knew I liked him immediately, because he knew the song was about Cassady by hearing it; plus he knew who Cassady was at all. Frank made a great video for this track on vimeo that includes images of fire and flight.


http://vimeo.com/8098295 
https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/unaturalism


Around 2000 I met Sean Anderson, who used my voice and lyrics on two different releases of his. His stuff was more progressive tech house then. He was really open minded about the subject matter I read about. Our first release "Solid Foundations" was on Chicago based Guidance Records and I was featured on the track "Dim." The original poem was about dream assassins, mythical kabbalist monks who could travel into people's subconscious while they slept. The song version was edited by the producer to be more romantic. The new creation turned out lovely and was well received.

https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/dim-grey-gdr-126


Mike Constantino had played music at quite a few events I had curated over the years. One day Adam Pickrell took me to the studiospace Mike shared on Ross Avenue downtown with Paul Paredes and Arnold Velasco. Knowing Mike from before, we were glad to see each other and scheduled a few recording sessions that lead to the release.  Orly Angelo did much of the production on the first album "Getting in It", really calm and joyful. Orly has a great ear for music and very natural flow. Really enjoyed working with him.  Like I could play a few keys on the keyboard to let them understand the melody I was feeling after I heard their first drafts of the track and he would just instantly get it & incorporate it.  Great collaborator. They were very understanding of my single mommy status and let me bring my daughter with me. She was always super well behaved and would happily color and watch movies while we worked. I'd bring her a little bag with quiet activities to work with in the side office.

https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/getting-in-it-ross-street


In 2003, Patchen came by one of my dinner parties and he brought me a gift. He had remixed the original track we'd done and created something wholly different and pretty amazing. Instead of focusing on the driver in my poem, this edit focused on the bus Cassady drove in the book "electric kool-aid acid test" and did it in an progressive techy trippy electo way.


https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/further-field-trip-mix

Paul and Orly were frequently collaborating. Paul scheduled a few sessions with me as well, after I wrapped up with Orly and Mike's e.p. project "Getting In It". Scott Pace and Paul had a project called "Honest Cars" and I believe this was the first track we did together.


https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/cars


Sean's Guidance Record and Orly's Fair Park Record releases were the same year around 2003ish. "Getting In It" got a favorable review in the print music magazine "XLR8R." Both vinyl records were commercially released internationally although only a limited number were issued. I got an ASCAP membership, an advance from the record companies and in the contracts legally retain a percentage of the lyrical copyrights on all my commercial releases. 



"Aqua A-go-go" was the 2nd track I did with Sean Anderson was a collaboration with JD Northrup (who now works at Pixar, but still releases music in SF). This poem was about rain and is a favorite of a few househeads in the UK. This track was released on vinyl by Fair Park.https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/aqua-a-go-go-fpr-022 

Several of us went to Winter Music Conference (WMC) in Miami to perform. They would pay my hotel room if I could just get down there. I played three gigs while in town. I was supposed to play a fourth with Paul at Opium Gardens but his time was cut and so was I lol. I got to sing great live sets with Sean Anderson on the patio at Kent Hotel, and another with Frank Topp who was living there at the time. 


I borrowed a vehicle and split the driving duty and gas cost with my my sweet girlfriends Sacha, Heather Smurfette and evil soon to be x-boyfriend. Kim Collins was my sound engineer that week and heart guru, she pretty much saved my ass with her amazing gear skills. 

https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/balance


But even on the air mattress in the back of the suv on the way driving back to texas from miami, i was scribbling away writing new stuff in my journal. 

https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/surveillance-vocal-trip-hop


However, throughout this I had financially difficulties. My parents were never rich. I had to be resourceful for my kid's sake. Corporate work paid well and had the insurance benefits I needed, but they would usually figure out I was not one of them and it was downhill from there. I never mentioned my art and music endeavors at the dayjob. Muggles are not impressed and it just opens the door for them to assume all sorts of things. "So you are one of those creative types, eh!? Now I'm on to you, missy! I saw that made-for-tv-movie about the artist/writer/musician. Escandalo!" I just kept hoping I would find a job that could accept that I was a hard worker that went above and beyond to get things done well and not be so upset that I had creative interests outside of work.


https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/houdini-electric-slipknot-mix


Paul had bigger plans. He wanted to do an l.p. and go for a full album. Originally he wanted me and scottie (redeye) to collaborate on lyrics or to release something with both of us doing vocals on different tracks. That didn't work out. Scottie had a very full plate and we just couldn't come together on our schedules. So, I was asked to write lyrics for a concept album to go along the lines of "glamour and damage." I wrote 12 fictional poems along that theme. Paul wanted the vocal delivery to be aggressive and forceful for his electrohouse tracks. I listened to a lot of Iggy Pop and La Tigre during the period we were recording. Scottie asked to keep the title "glamour and damage" for a project he was working on with someone out of state (said he was having it tattooed on to his neck).https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/firecracker

So I relented and changed our l.p. project title to "smash and glam." several years later, paul asked me to revisit the tracks and reworked a lot of my lyrics with an editor named Adam Ulevitch who shares writing credits on everything he changed. Negotiating content with an editor is an interesting exercise to say the least. Knowing what parts are worth fighting over and being able to appreciate improvements that you didn't make. Its an emotional see-saw of egos and preferences, but that is how art manifests sometimes.

https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/heartbreaker-nyc-mix

WORDS as ART

So in addition to writing leading to music, it also led to art. I often incorporate my writing into my artwork as was also done by dada and fluxus artists. There is a series of 12 collages based on the poems written for Paul's "Smash & Glam" project. This series of artwork was shown at the Austin Museum of Art in ____ at their annual 5x7 invitational art exhibit and auction. Its interesting because you see the cut-ups style editing. I made art out of the written poems I had with me in the recording booths that got written on and edited from the original to turn it into "lyrics." These edits were sometimes necessitated to fit the song structure and beats. Sometimes they were topical edits negotiated between me and the producer. Often they were edits I discovered had occured when the producer was reworking the track (parts just end up cut and its part of the process). I had been edited in school as a writer, but getting your personal poetry edited into a more musical format by someone who is not a poet can be heart-wrenching. It can also be beautiful when it creates a new composition you had never thought of. The true power of collaboration requires sacrifice of both parties egos on some level.

I continued hosting independent curatorial projects called D.Verz events from 1998-2003. During periods of day job unemployment they were held monthly. I began hosting 12 hour music and art events on summer and winter solstice which continued sporadically after D.verz was set aside. I hosted my first event before my daughter was born in 1994 at a art house movie theater on Samuell at Grand Ave called the Major Theatre. The owners let me pick double features from their black and white reels and showed them at midnight if I agreed to promote them. I made xerox flyers and stapled them up around town. I was going to raves thrown by a group called Kind Family who was looking for a new venue. I told Clint I had a venue they could pursue on the condition that I never be asked to pay to get in and got a plus one guest. 


It was a mistake to have more people in that space than the occupancy allowed. There is a special "silver" chemical applied to movie screens that is destroyed when touched (science). Dancers put sweaty hands on screens ruining their use for viewing purposes and it is a deep regret to me as a film lover who still has a collection of 8mm celluloid. I was young and didn't know any better at the time. I asked the owner each week at the rave to come give me a 5 minute warning before he would screen one of my favorite Douglas Fairbanks Jr. silent films from 1916 about the hedonistic "Detective Coke Ennyday" (definitely not a role model).  It was during a viewing of this comedy short that my neighbor Reid Manderville (RIP) introduced me (his girl best friend) to his guy best friend, the other partner in Kind Family (Mike, my exhusband and father of my daughter). Mike wouldn't have anything to do with me at first because he was seven years older than me, but I pursued him and we organized some amazing events together bringing in Steve Lawler, Derrick Carter and Afrika Bambaataa to name a few. We also created a smart, beautiful, love child together. He and I had similar birthmarks on our opposing thighs, the shapes fit together like jigsaw pieces. 



I kept journaling and writing, but did not sing while I was with my husband for some reason. I didn't pick up a mic again till I was at a party in the studio of Kenny Withrow, guitarist for grammy winning Edie Brickell's old band. Matthew P. was singing and I brought him a martini from my porta-bar. He handed me the mic and I suddenly remembered, "ooooooh yeah I can sing."


https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/wait-for-it


I remember that lesson because I know now if I don't have a song in my heart, it probably means I have changing to do.




Writing and art often intertwine in my life. I began managing the Plush Gallery downtown, after bringing a D.verz Event to the space. Randall Garrett let us host weekly poetry open mics that I co-hosted with Shawn Richburg aka Mustafa al-Laylah. We read poetry, had musical interludes and played surrealist writing games like exquisite corpse. It was wonderful to give new writers a platform to share in public for the first time and wonderful to meet established writers as well.

Years later, I was part of an art noise collective of performance artists called Binary Sound Machine who played at several galleries around town like the MAC, Texas Theatre and the very first Aurora Art Festival at Old City Park. I got to play clarinet in public for the first time since high school band and read poems over the music.


Binary Sound Machine at first Aurora Event at Old City Park as part of the Cedars Open Studios Tour, photographed by Israel Denis


Val Curry (gearhead and knob twiddler) was a great creative friend who invited me to play with him, Mary Benedicto (keys, video synth), Robert David Reedy (flutes & percussion), Sam England (guitar and accordion) and several other rotating artist sound performance guests like Randall and Jeff Parrott. Binary Sound Machine was known for improvisational music and abstract video projection that often included a box of children's musical toys and percussion instruments that were passed out to the audience members so that they could interact and make the moment happen. It was a deliberate destruction of the 4th wall, well except the time we played  in Houston and there was a literal wall between us and the audience (see below) lol.


Binary Sound Machine at Box13 in Houston photo by Sam England
At a Binary Sound Machine show, we opened for the musically magical Charles Randall at Candlight Room around 7 years ago. His supporters included the hosts of Poets on X+ Opalina and Carlos Salas who also ran the Cliff Notes Bookstore in Oak Cliff next to Kessler Theatre. They invited me to their show at the MFA Gallery where I met Johnny Olsen and MH Clay who hosted the Mad Swirl monthly open mic poetry nights at Absinthe Lounge (where I'd already thrown several events with the Reality Abatement Bureau artist collective). 

I still try to read at Mad Swirl (now at The Overpass Nightclub in xpo park or found online) and Poets on X+ (now at Lucky Dog Books) as often as I can. Both are uncensored but still moderated and full of wonderfully talented poets and storytellers both young and old, all bringing their experiences and methods to share.  Sometimes with the right group of poets you get the energy of a pentecostal revival, only without the religion. I'm pretty happy with this crew of laid back, like-minded, hyperverbal writers and friends. No one there says "you talk too much," instead they hoot and holler like they are feeling it.



cosmic kismet trigger effect at ant colony gallery photo by scott wayne mcdaniel
at this point, really i try to manage my time wisely and build in opportunities for journaling, writing, but also making to-do lists which is an optimist thing indeed. my writing leads me to music and art opportunities. I still take the stage and read poetry at least once a month. It gives me encouragement to keep writing. It gives me feedback, which ranges from "gosh your work is more powerful when it is less confessional" to "thank you so much for being open like that. it made me feel ____" or "i like to write but i'm afraid to read it in person, now i feel like should just do it!" being offered hugs, seeing tears and knowing smiles are also an excellent physical responses to be given after sharing your work with others.

I write for myself primarily. There are film treatments, including a long form improvisations short that we filmed over a 3 day period with 3 cameras (super 8 and vhs-c). called 24/7-11 it follows a group of people in a van all the way around beltline stopping only at 7-11's and parks. ideally the film should be projected simultaneously on 3 projectors and shown in one room as an immersive environment. There is a lot of work to do digitizing this project for modern formats.

my body of work also includes researched essays, critical art reviews, and cookbook editing projects. I write unapologetically and often, without reason or need for excuse. I choose my topics because I love them. Sometimes those topics are super personal and other times I feel like someone out there could get a happy connection if I shared it with them. How often have I read something mind-blowing by an author where it changed my pov for the better?


William Blake, William Gibson, William Faulkner,
Anais Nin, Jim Morrison, Henry Miller, Oscar Wilde,
Noam Chomsky, Joseph Campbell, Karl Jung, carl sagan,
Kerouac, Burroughs, Ginsberg, Kesey, Castaneda, Don Miguel Ruiz,
kafka, hunter s. thompson, tom robbins, vonnegut, gaiman,
omar khayyam, kahlil gibran, lao tzu



visual art by suza kanon "for the love of faulkner" in the private collection of Christos and Lori Polemenakos

I have a love affair with physical media, both collecting and creating. As a kid i collected rare first editions. I got a 100 year old 4 volume set of kipling at a flea market which included jungle book and I was hooked. I bought my grandmother's 8mm projector and celluloid reels at age 12. mom brought home a typewriter when her office made the change to computers when i was in junior high and the writing just flowed from then. I had always been a scribbler in notebooks. Getting in trouble for making my script too fancy in 1st grade. Noticing I could copy anyone's handwriting in 4th grade led to an interest in calligraphy. Writing has always been second nature, something soothing. Writing happens for me every day in some form or another and I try to make the very most of each opportunity. Whether it is writing a note to my brother and arguing on the internet. Often those argument are cut and pasted into drafts for later essays in my blog to give me enough time to research and source what I have to say. Every so often I am invited to be the feature poet at an event or asked to record for music projects, it is delightful creative exercise. Even as i write essays for school, I tend to choose topics I have been researching and wanting to spend time to write out anyways.

suza at chinati in marfa. unaltered photo with no filter, taken by docent in 2005.
Flex your writing muscles, kids. try to write every day, make it a ritual part of your schedule. keep your kung fu strong. i believe in you. Don't just be a consumer of media, be a creator.

31 March 2014

Puerto Rico Travel Reviews - Rainforest, Pork, Beaches, Seafood, Hot Springs

 This blog contains a little review of my adventures followed by a detailed list of the places we went, stayed and ate at (or meant to).  My list of travel destinations in Puerto Rico below includes addresses, hours of service, costs & amenities with links to trail/route maps where available. My lodging lists runs the gamut from treehouse camping, nice resort hotels, hostels, bed and breakfasts accomodating all sorts of travel budgets. My personal photo gallery of our trip can be found >here<

 -DESTINATION GUIDE-  below these reviews for- Old San Juan / Salinas / Dorado / El Yunque / Naguabo / Santurce San Juan / Pork Highway / West of San Juan / Lodging
We arrived in San Juan and our first morning was spent in Old San Juan where the tourists start & cruise ships come to port. The cobblestone streets are paved with blue flagstone.  The bus employees were on strike so we took a $14 taxi ride from Condado.  We ate breakfast at Cafeteria Mallorca which is an unpretentious little diner & bakery that makes delicious café con leche with an ancient coffee press/steamer and the most delicious Mallorca (a Spanish brioche style pastry with powdered sugar).  I ordered a mallorca with ham & cheese and it was amazing in a monte cristo kind of decadent way.  Next we walked a few block over to Pier 2 where the 50c ferry will take you to Condado where the largest rum distillery in the world is:  Casa Bacardi… the cathedral of rum.



Locally produced rum brands include:  Bacardi, Captain Morgan, Palo Viejo, Don Q, Boca Chico, Llave, Castillo, del Barrilito, Rico and Canita Cura’o.  Coca-cola is also produced locally and a rum & coke on Puerto Rico is a different experience that on the mainland.  Mojitos beautiful enough to bring a tear to your eye with fresh mint leaves & the perfect swizzle stick of sugar cane.  Pina Coladas supposedly originated in Old San Juan at Barrachina where you can still enjoy the cocktail on their patio.  The history says that Spanish conquistadors invaded the island and killed most of the native Tainos off.  The often blonde, blue eyed, Castillian Spainards imported African slaves to work the sugar plantations and refineries that produced rum, a byproduct of the sugar refining process was molasses. In the process of researching this trip I developed a recipe for "pirate pie" using rum, molasses & citrus to flavor a sweet potato- egg custard pie. However, this blog is about Puerto Rico, so let me tell you about the rum tours.


Once the ferry arrives in Condado, you will have to pay a van $3 each way to drive you over to Casa Bacardi from the pier.  The Bacardi tour does not allow many photos inside, there is a short education film about the company history & standards.  You get tickets good for 2 free cocktails at their bar next to the gift shop.  The gift shop offers Bacardi rum blends not available off the island, more basic blends can be had for around $10 a bottle (which unopened can be brought back on the plane).  After we returned on the ferry to Old San Juan, we walked across the street from Pier 2 and enjoyed the locally made Don Q Rum tasting room.  Don Q offers one free rum cocktail and you can take pictures of anything you like at their facility.  I was especially enamored with their first edition illuminated copy of Don Quixote.  I just love rare books.
  


At first in San Juan, we stayed in the Oceana Hostel above the Pura Vida vegetarian restaurant, about one block away from free Condado Beach.  They offer private rooms with adequate shower facilities (bring shower shoes).  The linens were clean.  Day manager super helpful & night manager was bitter. Roof deck was refreshing. Parking in a nearby alley on one side.  Interesting figurative graffiti.  Connected with a lovely friend who lives in San Juan & visited Circo Bar for a drag show and dancing to electronic music.  Crowded dancefloor after midnight, lots of diversity, many shirtless attractive boys getting their groove on.  The music everywhere in Puerto Rico is cranked up to 11 always whether its a siren break at a danceclub or a salsa band in a plaza, volume is serious on the island.  Music is life. 

Drove the very curvy, ups & downs of route 184 aka Pork Highway to find a Lechoneria for lunch.  Roasted pork everything.  Dozens of little food stands & restaurants alllllll along the road, especially concentrated in the town of Guavate where you will find at least 4 competing soundsystems on a Saturday belting out tunes for your dancing feet.  Delightfully fresh pina coladas, empanadillas, ribs, pastelillas & all sorts of deliciousness.  If you want a part of the pig & cannot translate, remember to point & mime politely.  We ate lunch at Los Piñones, which offered a buffet line making it easier for us to order based on sight instead of guesswork.  There is nothing like watching someone carve your lunch from the whole animal with a machete to remind you of the sacrifice this animal made for your sustenance.  Thank you tasty pig friend, they honored you in the recipes.  Most definitely.  One word to learn to love before visiting Guavate?  “Chicharrón” the crackling savory, crisp pork skin.  That puffy stuff they sell in the bags as chips called chicharrones is a sad pale comparison to the real thing, fresh & hot off the meat. Video of Travel Channel's Bizarre Food episode in Puerto Rico found >here<





Lets introduce you to another Puerto Rican dish that my vegetarian friends can enjoy while vacationing, since I did just subject them to visceral Roasted Pig imagery lol. “Tostones.”  Super delicious, little round patties of mashed plantain (or yucca plants on some menus) that are twice fried.  Sometimes tostones are stuffed with meat or vegetables upon request. I had amazing lobster tostones in Salinas at La Barca.  >Here< is a link to a recipe for tostones should you like to cook a few. 

One more vegan dish found in Puerto Rico on menus is “Mofongo”.  Its mostly mashed plantains as well but softer and slightly more savory.  Often its offered with marinated meats or fried in bacon grease, but that is an option for some veggie friends as well.  >Here< is a link for a recipe for vegetarian mofongo.

Near the south coast of Puerto Rico is a little town called Coamo that offers geothermally heated hot springs, perfectly clear natural spring water heated to around 109 degrees.  The hot springs is not considered good to drink because of its high mineral content, however the local tap water is fine.  It is thought that Banos de Coamo was the original inspiration for the Fountain of Youth sought by Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon.  Hotel is simple, clean & quiet.  Beautiful private pool area in the hotel with both cold & hot pools.  Next door to hotel is a public hot springs area if you choose to pay to swim.  Amazing trees growing in this space, a true oasis.  We ate dinner at a restaurant nearby called La Ceiba which had an amazing ancient tree, the food was a little pricey but solid.
 

 

On our drive out, we stopped in Salinas at the southern coast of Puerto Rico that touches the Caribbean sea.  This little fishing town has some amazing restaurants with views of the water.  We ate at La Barca & loved every succulent bite of fresh seafood.  Incredible lobster paella & lobster stuffed mahi mahi (locally called Dorado).  




As we left, I stopped to dip my toe in the sea so that later that night I could dip my other toe in the Atlantic when we got to our destination tat evening.  To my surprise I found a micro-SD card in the seawater of Salinas.  The disk worked & we found a nice older couple’s vacation photos.  I would love to return their disk, but no evidence of their names or origin.

Next we stayed in Dorado on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean at a resort hotel with a private beach, Embassy Suites Dorado del Mar Casino & Resort. Amazing beach sunsets. Snorkeling around coral reefs.  The casino is rigged, the pit boss nudged the roulette table almost every time the ball was thrown (to the point I asked him to please stop touching the table during my bets).  They fix their broken slot machines in a Fonzi like way by punching the machine :/ Lovely pool area with no deep end, all pools were less than 4 ft deep.  Private beach was also deliberately shallow.  Generous free breakfast with omelette bar, free happy hour drinks in the evening with snacks.  We nicknamed this hotel Gringoland because of the many spoiled American children running about.  Exquisite high thread count sheets & best wifi we had on the island.  Ate dinner at nearby Katrina’s restaurant, fresh seafood prepared in Creole/Caribbean/Cajun style with a view of the beach.  We ate red snapper with red mojo sauce and mahi mahi in garlic butter.  Amazing local food at Katrina’s, relatively inexpensive for a neighborhood awash with precious plates of tiny nibbles & American chain restaurants.  

After gringoland, we escaped to the rainforest in search of our treehouse in the jungle.  Admittedly, this is a tiny island compared to Texas.  It only takes an hour to cross the entire island of Puerto Rico from the North to the South.  There was a supermercado and a wal-mart within twenty-ish minutes of Naguabo where we stopped for camping supplies such as the $3 pocket knife we used to pry the husks off fresh coconuts, batteries for our LED lanterns, drinking water, baby wipes, charcoal & food.  Bugspray is not necessary with all the bats and frogs eating mosquitos there.  In fact, our host drinks the local spring water (which is a safe spring at this elevation) and is happy to share this unpurified water should you ask.  Food in the Rainforest was plentiful once we knew what to look for, our guide Robin pointed out edible plants during the hike up to the treehouse.  During our walk in March we enjoyed a type of local blueberry that grows on trees, bananas from the bunch, “tree spinach”, and coconuts.  Harvest time at the fruit farm is around August & September.  This is not a traditional farm with trees in rows, this is a jungle with select cultivated plants that provide food or homeopathic medical solutions.  Here is a minute long audio track my boyfriend recorded while we were camping in the treehouse at Rainforest Fruit Farms. sound link for midnight in el yunque >
https://soundcloud.com/hepkatmama/el-yunque-rainforest






The treehouse is an unfinished one room cabin with outdoor porch built into the side of the mountain on stilts at 900 ft. above sea level.  There is no electricity or running water.  There is a bbq grill out back by the coconut tree. The locker inside has clean linens, mosquito netting, extra blankets plus random cutlery, foil and pans left behind by former guests. The porch deck has two hammocks, 2 chairs, a table for dining and an amazing view of the sea from above the treetops.  A peaceful night time serenade by chirping frogs, birds and insects will lull you to sleep.



The next day we tried to visit the petroglyph caves but found all the private parking owners were not at home & gates were locked.  The public parking area is prone to car break-ins & we ended up blowing it off. Instead we drove 2 minutes north of the Rainforest Fruitfarm to swim in the spring fed waterfalls of the southern most point of El Yunque Rainforest National Park on 191.  After our swim we had dinner at a quaint little café called Noelia’s that is built on the mountainside with a spectacular patio view of the rainforest valley (see photo below).  Noelia is an amazing chef who uses local game and produce to create fresh tasty dishes sure to please both vegetarians and carnivores alike.  I had a savory rabbit turnover (empanadilla de conejo) and juicy bbq chicken wings with puerto rican style rice and beans. Probably one of the best meals on the trip served by a lady with a radiant smile who loves cooking, conga drums and her sweet old dog, Chaco.
 


-DESTINATION GUIDE  INDEX-  Old San Juan / Salinas / Dorado / El Yunque / Naguabo / Santurce San Juan / Pork Highway / West of San Juan / Lodging

-Old San Juan-
Bus - Condado > Old SJ (catch Bus 53 on McLeary. Get off at 1- San Juan/Covadonga Station) 75c/person. Runs 7am-9pm. route map at this link >    http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/wp-post-images/san-juan-bus-routes.png

Trolly free.7am-7pm. Routes start at Pier 4.  Old SJ only. both red & blue routes go from trolly pier 4 > Calle San Francisco > ferry Pier 2) . route map at this link >  http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/free-trolley-old-san-juan/

Cafeteria Mallorca - 300 Calle San Francisco, San Juan –breakfast (bombadera fndr) 787-724-4607 cafe con leche, mallorca dominguera with ham & cheese. sit at counter (4 blks from pier 2) open 7am-6:30pm. Inexpensive PR diner in Old San Juan (founded by old employees of La Bombonara in the 50s). http://www.yelp.com/biz/cafeteria-mallorca-san-juan

 
Casa Bacardi – in Catano, PR (ferry ride from pier 2 in old san juan. 50c / person. Runs every 15-30 minutes).  Largest rum distillery in world.  Free hour long tour w/ 2 free samples.  Including distillery replica, bar, film, interactive smelling area.  M-Sat 9:00am till last tour at 4:15pm.  Sun 10am-3:45pm  www.casabacardi.org (Bacardi Puerto Rico on fb)
 



 Casa Don Q Rum (brand favored by locals) – Ochoa Building (ground floor) on Marina Street across the street from Pier 2 in Old San Juan.  Rum Reading Room & Bar with free rum sample & inexpensive gift shop.  Open Fri- Wed, 11am till 8pm (closed Thursday).  787-977-1720 (ferry ride east of catano or walk from san juan) http://www.destileriaserralles.com/Brochure.pdf
  



- Ocean Park Beach - in San Juan near Condado (more adult beach, south beach mia vibe, near residential so more low key, 1 km from Oceana hotel)  1077 Avenue Doctor Ashford, San Juan, Puerto Rico 00907   http://gopuertorico.about.com/od/sanjuan/p/OceanPark_Guide.htm

- Salinas (Caribbean coast fishing port) -
La Barca - Calle A, Salinas, Puerto Rico 00751 seafood with view of caribbean
Ladi's Place - Cam De Playa - Salinas, Puerto Rico 00751 (787) 824-2035 seafood with view
Restaurant El Roble - Carr 701 79-A Bo. Playa, Salinas, Puerto Rico 787-824-2377 (old family run seafood restaurant, but no view)

-Dorado-
Katrina's -  $- Dorado, Puerto Rico 00646 (787) 278-3183 beach seafood. empenadas. beach corner of clle estrella del mar & calle a / calle madre perla 


Mana Deli Plaza Dorada 12 / 787-796-7676 / 9a- 10 p. BREAKFAST. DELI. PR food
Costa Criolla -$$- Costa De Oro D76, Dorado, Puerto Rico 00646 (787) 626-5999
El Capitan $ (787.278.0111)  511 Calle Sur (Detrás del Pabellón Rafael Hernández Colón) mariscos 11am-10pm (Thursday is $15 lobster night)

-Rainforest Area - Naguabo / Rio Blanco / Rio Grande -
El Yunque National Park Rainforest  – open daily 7:30am – 6pm – Hwy PR 191 runs thru it North - South.  HC-01, Box 13490, Rio Grande, PR 00745-9625.  787-888-1880  . Camping (must rsvp over 2 weeks in advance), hiking, picnics, scenic drives, waterfalls, interpretive forest center, yokahu tower, several trees & animals only found in this rainforest. No Fee for tent camping or day visits.  Restrooms in the El Portal Rainforest Ctr (25 mi. east of san juan) http://www.fs.usda.gov/elyunque

El Yunque Hiking Trail Map in this link >
http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/elyunque/maps-pubs/?cid=stelprdb5190546&width=full

List of Puerto Rican Local Animals, Reptiles, Amphibians, Fish and Birds listed at >
http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/elyunque/learning/nature-science/?cid=fsbdev3_042978 


Taino Petroglyphs & La Canoa Falls in Rio Blanco at the edge of the Rainforest.  Free Parking is challenging (locals recommend you partner with others so that your cars are not left alone, teenagers tend to break in unattended vehicles). Several home owners on the street will allow you to park inside their gated yards for $3-5 (which is worth it if they are home) -  GPS: 18.247747, -65.786351
http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/el-hippie/
  




Noelias - Rainforest Bar & Grill in Naguabo.  Excellent food, generous bar, friendly service, amazing view from the patio, jukebox & pool table inside.  Noelia loves fresh food made with local ingredients and delightfully plays her congas to the jukebox.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/noelias-naguabo

 

Restaurante Waterfront Cantina - Puerto Rico 3, Naguabo, Puerto Rico 00718  (787) 874-3028

- In Santurce (San Juan) -
Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  Avenida de Diego 299 in Santurce 787-977-6277
PRs largest museum includes garden.  Free on Wednesdays from 2-8 pm or $6 other times.  ___ night calendar http://puertoricanpainter.com/gallery.htm

Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (MAC). Av. Juan Ponce de León, esquina Ave. Roberto H. Todd, Parada 18, San Juan, 00910 (787-977-4030)-  ?$5 adults. (free entry each Last Wednesday of month open till 9:00 pm).  Open Tue - Fri 10am - 4pm, Sat 11am - 1pm, Sun 1pm - 5pm.

La Plaza del Mercado. aka La Placita (foodie farmers market, fish market, herbs, tons of restaurants nearby) in Santurce neighborhood. Corner of Dos Hermanos and Capitol streets in a blue collar neighborhood.  Foodie by day.  Bar/music at night.  Cab at night, no parking. (a few local things of interest:  Algarova = Carob. Mavee = PR iced tea)

El Coco de Luis. at dos hermanos & capitol streets in La Placita– cheap food & specialty whiskey cocktail served in fresh coconut 787-721-7595

Tasco el Pescador.
Across from main market building on Dos hermanos Street in Santurece. Best place in market for fresh seafood. Neon sign on green building 787-751-4335

Circo Bar. straight friendly LGBT nightclub in Santurce.  Multi-leveled, 4 different rooms.  Excellent danceclub after midnight.  Drag shows on the weekend. Strong drinks, loud music, bad neighborhood, free parking, simpler to pay in cash. 650 Calle Condado, San Juan PR  00907 (727-725-9626)  http://www.yelp.com/biz/circo-bar-san-juan

 
- Pork Hwy is Route 184-  through City of Guavate (off Hwy 52), is home of Lecho’n, roast suckling pig .  notice the KM marker signs to determine ”street address” as you drive along.
El Rancho Original (pork) Route 184 Guavate, (Cayey) Puerto Rico 00736 (bourdain)
Lechonera Los Pinos 787) 286-1917 . Guavate, Carr. 184, Km. 27.7, Cayey, Puerto Rico 00736
Lechonera El Rey 787-535-4200 . Carr 184 Km 32.4 | Bo Guavate, Cayey, Puerto Rico




- West of San Juan-
- Museo del Café at 42 Calle Palmer Cabalines, Ciales, 00638, a small town mountain town about one hour west from San Juan. Family owned coffee roasters, museum & café.  Sells locally grown coffee. $1 per person tour. pen Tuesday to Friday from 8am to 3pm, Saturday and Sunday from 8am to 5pm. 787-871-3439 to rsvp for tour

- Balneario Punta Salinas
in Toa Baja. Crescent shaped beach with life guards & blue flag tested water. Good swimming. Manatee & Sea turtle nesting site.  Dark beige sand. $4.28 entry per person.  W-Su from 8:30-5pm  787-795-3325  (20 min from San Juan)

-Rio Camuy Cave Park - Route 129 Km 18.9,HCO 2 7865-A,Camuy,00627, Puerto Rico 787-898-3100 located 11 miles southwest of Arecibo on Hwy 129.  open Tuesday to Sunday and holidays from 8:00 am to 3:45 pm. Entrance fee $10, parking is $2. rsvp required

- Arecibo Observatory – world’s largest Radio Telescope in Arecibo, Puerto Rico.  This is the source of the data used by SETI. $10 adults/ $6 for kids or seniors.  Open M-Su 9am-4pm (787 - 878 – 2612) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arecibo_Observatory  http://www.naic.edu/general/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=162:vc-description&catid=107&Itemid=638

 
- Rio Piedras Mercado on Paseo de Jose de Diego (east of San Juan).  Farmers market, Hot Food vendors, (on Bizarre Food).  Open M- Sat from 9am – 6pm and Sun morning. Free. Area parking is usually $1 per hour.

-LODGING-
COAMO HOT SPRING (1.5 hours South of San Juan) – Route 546, Km 1, Coamo, PR 00769 (787 825 2186) Check in 2pm, checkout 12pm, Free breakfast, free parking $85 double room with vaulted ceilings & courtyard view of ancient tree. Hotel has swimming pool & separate private hot pool heated by thermal springs (pool closes not long after sunset, ask early about night swims).  Next door is city run public springfed thermal pool that charges $3 per person  787-825-6668  (7am – 9pm Sat & Sun).  http://welcome.topuertorico.org/cgi-bin/lodgingshow.cgi?listing=0143
http://www.coamo.puertorico.pr
http://www.puertoricodaytrips.com/coamo-thermal-springs/

Oceana Hostal Playero  $130ish per night. free street parking, free continental breakfast, full sz kitchen, outdoor swimming pool, rooftop deck with view of city, one block from Condado beach, check in 3pm check out 12pm. 1853 Mcleary Avenue, San Juan, Puerto Rico 00911.  787-728-8119. (near airport, museums, santurce, old san juan, bt. condado beach and ocean beach) Http://oceanapuertorico.com/?

Embassy Suites Dorado del Mar - 201 Dorado Del Mar Boulevard, Dorado, 00646, Puerto Rico TEL: 1-787-796-6125
check-in 4pm, check out 12pm.  in room fridge, microwave, room service, beach access, beach yoga, free breakfast with omelette/waffle bar, free "evening reception" drinks/snacks, near dorado del mar casino, arcade, gym, spa, luggage hold, baggage storage ($3/day), bar, parking $12/day. 

Phillips Forest Cabin  $40 per night for treehouse (less for tent sites). BBQ grill but no kitchen, full size bed with mosquito net. Treehouse has no electricity & no running water (so bring lights & food/water). Robin Phillips is a fruit farmer & knowledgeable rainforest guide.  exotic fruit farm with views of the ocean and Vieques Island from your cabins' porch. It's a steep hike up 900 ft. Elevation to the treehouse, do not arrive after dark. On Road # 191 about 53 min from san juan, take 191 north from Naguabo to reach farm. Rainforest Fruit Farm is at HC1 Box 4449 Naguabo, Puerto Rico 00718 USA robinaphillips@gmail.com . There was a landslide (pretty old now) across the road on the top of the mountain and Road 191 is blocked off completely in the middle (landslide separates Rainforest Fruit Farm from the main National Park, but there is still access to one of the park’s spring fed waterfall/swimming area from the south side). Walking distance to trails of El Yunque National Forest and Cubuy / Sabana River springfed pools.
http://www.elyunque.com/Phillips.htm
http://www.rainforestfruitfarm.com/cabins.html

Casa Cubuy Ecolodge - $120 per night.Route 191 in Naguabo (787-874-6221) Running water & Electricity. Showers. No tv. No a/c (but temperatures are 60-75 year round). Hotel uses solar power. Complimentary fruit breakfast. Clean Linens. Hiking distance to trails of El Yunque National Forest and Cubuy and Sabana River springfed pools. Check in at 1pm. Check out at 11am. info@casacubuy.com
http://www.casacubuy.com/index.html

Posado Old San Juan. Calle San Francisco 405, In front of Plaza Colon, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico private room with shared bath is $108. check in: 15:00-3pm.  check out: 11:00AM Taxes and fees not included breakfast not included ( but have 2 full kitchens) credit cards accepted.  Cancellation policy 72 hours. Free WiFi, Bike rentals, Washing Machines onsite, All Rooms have airconditioning, onsite Bar. Hostel got really good ratings for cleanliness.
http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Posada-San-Francisco/San-Juan/46261?dateFrom=2014-03-21&dateTo=2014-03-23&sc_sau=avdc&sc_pos=3

Hyatt Hacienda Del Mar – 301 Hwy 693. Vega Alta 00646.  (787-796-3000) $161 per night ("studio" queen)  Check in 4pm / check out 10am. Outdoor pool & swimup bar.  Hot tub, gym, free guest parking, wifi, balcony, hiking trails on site, snorkeling on site, yoga on site, beachfront hotel. (24 mi west from airport.  n beach) http://hyatthaciendadelmar.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

Comfort Inn Levittown
– 3167 Paseo Cresta, Toa Baja PR 00950  787-641-9090
Free breakfast & wifi, balconies, beachfront hotel, outdoor pool, $179/night (or $109 on travelocity).  Free guest parking.  (8 minutes from Bayamon, 24 minutes from airport, on beach)

Andalucia Guest House – in Condado 787.309.3373 2011 calle McLeary. San Juan, PR. $99/queen private bath.  http://www.andalucia-puertorico.com/guest_house_rooms_and_rates.html

The Palace Hostel (condado beach in san juan) 666 Calle Suau, San Juan, PR 00907 +1 787-998-2494  $34 for double private room
http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/The-Palace-Hostel/San-Juan/54364?dateFrom=2014-03-21&dateTo=2014-03-23&sc_sau=avdc&sc_pos=1

San Juan Beach Hotel
$124. 1045 Ashford Avenue San Juan 00907 Puerto Rico 1-855-201-7819
 

 
Hostel on Vieques Island
Beware of some petty crime and reportedly underhanded local authorities in the neighborhood.  Vieques is the Island nearest to Bioluminescent Bay
http://vieques.com/island-bioluminescent-bay/
http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/The-Lazy-Hostel-Vieques/Vieques/68148?dateFrom=2014-03-21&dateTo=2014-03-24&sc_sau=avdc&sc_pos=1

Gloria's in Fajardo… Casa Linda del Este: Modestly priced, a very clean & comfortable two bedroom apartment, with amazing views! lovely area on the eastern slopes just below the East Peak of El Yunque mountains. starting at $75. for 2 pp. and $100 for 4 .. See the real Puerto Rico here with friendly local hosts who will serve you breakfast if you ask. All children welcome. Gloria also has a one bedroom (very clean) unit with private bath which rents for $55. per night for 2 plus 7% tax. Road # 971, drive south from Fajardo. 2 night minimum: call Gloria directly. Gloria Nazario tel. 787-461-6666. gloriasapt@hotmail.com   http://www.elyunque.com/glorias.htm

Hostel in Fajardo http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Moon-Light-Bay-Hostel/Fajardo/71341?dateFrom=2014-03-21&dateTo=2014-03-23

-LINKS-
www.frommers.com/destinations/puerto-rico/744365  (best beaches)
http://studentsinsanjuan.blogspot.com/2008/07/puerto-rico-is-rum-tastic.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Juan,_Puerto_Rico