co-muses

read a great article a few years ago & was quite taken by the true story of tragic romance between two young, clever, talented but ultimately doomed artists. It looks like i wasn't the only one. brett easton ellis & gus van sant are working together on a script for Lionsgate based on the couple, inspired by the same article I read. Below are excerpts from the original article:

co-muses

"She was 'a blonde to make a bishop kick a hole in a stained glass window'....

She was a little bit wild (not sexually, God no -- she was rather demure there -- intellectually) and Jeremy loved wildness in people. 'By wildness I'm not referring to some corny idea of rock 'n roll excess,' he said. 'I'm talking about an internal turbulence and inventiveness that keeps the person and everyone around him or her on their toes.'

She could be combative. She let people know there was a line they couldn't cross with her. 'They were co-muses.....'

He loved that they knew interesting people, had them over all the time -- artists, musicians, writers, producers -- constantly drank, smoked, laughed and never turned on the television.....

As with everything else she did, she was fervent about it.... Her confidence was contagious. It was 'punk.'

Inspired...she made him feel free, and that made him feel loyal."

transcribed from the article "East Village Suicides" by Nancy J. Sales in the January 2008 issue of Vanity Fair about the lives of Theresa Duncan and Jeremy Blake:
http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/features/2008/01/suicides200801

see Theresa's blog here:
http://theresalduncan.typepad.com/

more on the movie:
http://www.slashfilm.com/gus-van-sant-and-bret-easton-ellis-team-to-write-suicide-film/

NY Mag'obit' called "conspiracy of two":
http://nymag.com/news/features/36091/

Vikings in Oklahoma - Heavener Runestone

My great grandfather Buck was born in Indian Territory before it was known as Oklahoma. As an old man he told his grandson the stories passed on to him by his own grandfather about a tribe of red headed giants who would come snatch away naughty children and gobble them up. The story was that long ago all the regional tribes banded together for the last remembered time on a singular mission. Choctaws, Alogonquins, Cherokee, Sioux and others supposedly all worked together to wipe out the giant cannibals; eliminating every man, woman & child. But oral tradition can be embellished with re-telling, and what evidence is there of any tall groups of ginger haired people in the South?


Well actually there are quite a bit of clues. If you ever decide to visit Eastern Oklahoma, spend some time at Heavener Runestone State Park. Around 600 a.d. there may have been a Viking named Glome (nicknamed Gloi) marking his territory on Poteau Mountain in Oklahoma near Heavener. Still vertical it stands at 12 foot tall, 10 feet wide and 16 inches thick, roughly the size of a billboard featuring only 8 letters. The Heavener Runestone translates to say "Glome's Valley" Amazingly, there are seven other known runestone monuments some positioned miles apart in a straight line across the the region. The grey land claim marker is made of Savannah Sandstone withstanding time and bearing an inscription carved in an alphabet used by Northern Europeans long before Columbus crossed the sea.

Runes are a old Germanic & Scandanavian alphabet used from the 3rd to the 13th century. Just like English has gone from the Beowulf Old English spoken by the Anglo-Saxons to the modern newspeak L337 chatted by American teenagers, the runic alphabet being used changed over the centuries as well. The runic alphabet that most modern people recognize does not have the exact same letters as the Old Norse version and this caused a lot of argument in the earlier part of the last century over the authenticity of the norse inscriptions in Oklahoma.


The Heavener Runestone is thought to have been inscribed as early as 600 a.d., and the alphabet used was determined to be from the oldest Germanic (Old Norse) Futhark by Dr. Richard Nielsen in 1986. This Old Norse Futhark was used from about 300 A.D. whereas by 800 A.D the Scandanavian Futhark had become the predominant alphabet for runes. Dr. Nielsen got his doctorate at the University of Denmark and they know an awful lot there about about runes, norsemen and lets just call them vikings.The nearby Poteau Runestone was found by two 13 year old boys on a hill in 1967 and translates to "Magic or Protection to Gloi". The Shawnee Runestone was found face down in a stream about two years later, it appears to be a grave marker for someone named 'Medok." Both markers are written in Old Norse Futhark. Two other smaller stones with fewer letters as well as a binding rune were also found strategically placed in the area, including one near Robbers Cave.


According to oral tradition, the Heavener Runestone was first discovered by a Choctaw hunting party in the 1830's not too long after the tribe had been removed from its ancient home of Mississippi and relocated to Oklahoma. Wilson King was hunting bear with two friends when they found the runestone somtime before reporting it in 1874 and they are the first modern white men on record to have seen the monument. By the time Carl Kemmerer reported finding the stone in 1913 others in the area already knew it as "Indian Rock." But the runes had been there before the Choctaws, before the French trappers named Poteau Mountain, before Desoto's men laid eyes on the mossy grey carved stone. The runic inscription had been there since the norse educated & or viking's descendent put it there.


How much time did it take a Viking to get there himself? Months? Generations? This band of Norsemen had to travel from the known settlements in Greenland around the New England coast around Florida through the Gulf of Mexica and into Oklahoma by taking the Mississippi North to the Arkansas River in their flatbottomed long boats which easily navigated the rivers of the South.

Back in 1923, Kemmerer started the process of authentication by sending copies of the strange symbols to the Smithsonian Institute. In 1928, he showed the runes to a 12 year old little girl named Gloria Farley who was to devote the rest of her life to the research, translation and preservation of the monument over the next seventy years. It wasn't till 1965 that Oklahoma considered it as a site for state park. Over the next five years, support built for the project in Heavener (pronounced like heave-ho, not like with angels) and land was donated by the Leland Dial family. Senator Clem Hamilton appropriated funds for the park and a winding road was soon built up the mountainside to the park site.

At the top of Runestone Road on the other side of the railroad tracks in Heavener is the day use state park. A stone path leads down stairs to the place where the marker has been naturally protected from erosion by rock overhangs and pokeberry bushes. Mrs. Farley's state park effort originally built a cage around the runestone to prevent vandalism in 1970 along with an interpretive center. Now the cage is gone and Heavener Runestone still remains settled in the same spot as it has for centuries, although enclosed behind plexiglass in a lovely cedar building. Encased to its right are reproductions of the other stones found in the area along with translations, history and a few security cameras to keep everything safe and undisturbed.

One of the park's best feature is its spectacular view of the Poteau Valley... Glome's Valley I should say. Park is open from 8 a.m. till sunset and offers picnic tables, grills, gazebo and open air ampitheatre along with adequate bathroom facilities. Bring a picnic basket and your viking helmet.

On your way out, stop in Heavener at the Southern Belle restaurant for some pie. Southern Belle is on Hwy 59 and housed within an old railroad dining car. They feature at least 10 different daily varieties of pie with a view of the KC Southern train switchyard that is framed by the mountain where you will find evidence of tall, red headed white men that found their way to Oklahoma.


BIBLIOGRAPHY
gallery of photographs taken on my trip to the site

Oklahoma State Park site for Heavener Runestone Park includes amenities list, pics of the park and a video of the late Gloria Farley. Park is about 4 hours north of Dallas in Heavener Oklahoma, about 2.5 miles north on Hwy 59 at the Hwy 270 junction, follow the signs to Runestone Road and enjoy the drive up the mountain.

most of the facts in this blog came from:"The Heavener Runestone" pamphlet by Gloria Farley published by Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation Dept., Div. of State Parks, 500 Will Rogers Bldg., OKC, OK 73105. Link to full text >click here<

"In Plain Sight: Old World Records in Ancient America". by Gloria Farley is a hardback documenting her lifelong research. It is 491 pages long with 540 illustrations, photographs and scale drawings and includes 338 pieces of evidence of visitations of her extensive Petroglyph research all over North America. Although strictly a non-fiction work with complete references, the book also contains stories of adventure and humor. It is currently used as a textbook in Heavener High School and Bentley College, Massachusetts. The book may be ordered from I.S.A.C. Press, P.O. Box 1658, Columbus, GA, 31902, The price per copy is $42.50 postpaid.

for more about the translation from ancient Old Norse Futhark, read "The Runestones of Oklahoma" by Dr. Richard Nielsen. Epigraphic Society Occasional Publications, Vol. 16, 1987. ordered from 6625 Bamburgh Dr., San Diego CA 92217

Heavener ISD profile of Gloria Farley

art by kray twins & the ethics of criminal provenance

In the art world, quirky artistic temperament is part of the process & gives value to the dealers role as middle man between the creator & the collector. What role does ethics play in selling the creations made by a cold blooded murderer?

Reggie & Ronnie Kray were infamous mob twins who dominated East London gangland but technically were nightclub owners and boxing promoters. Really they're better known for intimidation, psychotic fits of violence, rigging fights, a platoon of henchmen called "the Firm", celebrity friends, impeccable style and undying devotion to their dear old mum, Violet. The Kray brothers made substantial donations to British boxing charities; Jack Ruby is on record as saying: “boxing and criminality are two faces of the same coin.” It has been theorized that Ronnie's homosexual affairs with several closeted high ranking members of parliament from both parties is what let them get away so long with their criminal enterprises.

When the mob boss twins were finally convicted of something, for Reggie it was for the murder of underworld figure Jack 'The Hat' McVitie. For Ronnie he was convicted of the very public murder of gangster rival, George Cornell in front of a pub full of witnesses (most of whom either "didn't remember" or just flat out refused to testify) . They were both sent to jail for 30 years each in January 1969. At the time it was the longest, most expensive trial in British history. Ronnie, who spent much of his sentence at Broadmoor high-security hospital for the criminally insane, died in 1995 aged 61. Reggie died five years later after being paroled a few weeks before his death in response to his deteriorating health from bladder cancer.

Each twin wrote a bookfrom a cell, but more than 32 books have been written about them (especially well done are those authored by John Pearson). The film The Krays(1990) immortalized their flashy brutal business sense on the big screen. But it turns out they also dabbled in paint while they were locked up.

The personal belongings of the twins that were put up for auction were given to a "very close friend of the Krays" who grew up with them and made regular treks to see Reggie in prison and Ronnie in Broadmoor. Also on sale at the auctions were paintings done by the twins while incarcerated. Every auctioned piece of clothing as well as the art is considered a historic object to collectors of true crime memorabilia.

Collectors of outsider and folk art are known for their affection for interesting work by persons with mental illness, children, monkeys and other self taught artists who rarely make the work with the intention of selling it. The twins should definitely be considered outsider artists due to their limited formal art training. Their work comes with a peculiarly dark provenance which adds market value to the Kray's body of artwork.

ART PRICES:
1st Chiswick Auction in London on January 26, 2009 (160 personal effect items) £110,000 total:
- Ronnie's cufflinks in form of the intials RK £1,000
- letter to Ronnie from artist Francis Bacon £7,400
- Ronnie's oil painting done in Parkhurst prison £4,800

2nd Chiswick Auction in London on March 30, 2009:
- Ronnie's brevet revolver £3,000
- Reggie's paintings
- Ron & Kate's engagement ring £2,900
- Ron & Kate's Cartier diamond cluster wedding ring £2,800

"Outsider art - (n.) Strictly interpreted, outsider art refers to works by those outside of mainstream (art) society...folk and ethnic art as well as by prisoners...Because fewer and fewer people are sufficiently isolated (from art/media) to be truly outsiders, most are either mentally ill or working far from urban art scenes." [as defined by artlex.com]

"A victims’ support group has raised concerns over the sale of a gun belonging to the notorious Kray twins, saying it could reopen 'emotional wounds'. National charity Victim Support, which offers support to those affected by crime, yesterday condemned the sale of items saying many of the Krays’ victims were still living with the memories of what happened to them." A spokesman for Chiswick said '“The trade we work in from day to day is antiques and history – they come hand in hand for use. These items are a part of British history. There is no glamourising of this on our part.'"

AUCTION DATES:
- Bonhams Chelsea: sold Wednesday, August 23, 1995 [Lot 395]
Artist: Reginald Kray
Title: Reggie's turmoil, the despair of a Lifer (oil on board w/2 letters from artist and Ronnie Kray)


- Bloomsbury Auctions: sold Wednesday, November 22, 2006 [Lot 79]
Ronnie Kray, Untitled (oil on board Landscape with house and tree)


-Chiswick Auction in London sold on January 26, 2009
Ronnie Kray oil painting done in Parkhurst prison £4,800

- Chiswick Auction in London sold on March 30, 2009
Reginald Kray oil painting

- Bloomsbury Auctions: sold Thursday, September 30, 2010 [Lot 182]
Artist: Reginald Kray
Title: Untitled (+ 4 others; 5 works), 1986


A few years ago, a friend of mine curated an exhibit of paintings by serial killers such as John Wayne Gacy. What if the mother of one of Gacy's victims had come to the show and had an emotional response to the work being displayed by her child's murderer and violently reacted to the piece or establishment showing it? What if Victim's Support has valid concerns about the torment caused by glamorizing the lesser known talents of an real historical person who in life was despised and eventually punished for the evil done to their victims? Is it any different than the Antiques Roadshow like sale of a gun owned by John Wilkes Boothe or Al Capone? Few capitalists can resist market value when a painting outsells a Cartier diamond ring.

If the line between genius & insanity is so very thin, where do we draw the line in commidifying the art created by known predators? I suppose it is a risk to be assumed by the curators & dealers who choose to indulge their collectors' taste for blood.

In 2010, the three Teale brothers reported they would be releasing a tell-all book about the Kray'sfrom their perspective as henchmen, confidantes to the Twins, and eventual star witnesses who were forced into hiding after their testimonies convicted the Krays and many others. "They are planning to mark their unexpected reunion (after 42 years) with a book they hope will strip away the veneer of glamour around two of the most sadistic and dangerous killers this country has ever known." One of the brothers, Bobby mused 'But it almost looks like a waste of time...and a waste of our lives...when you find out that people are spinning a pack of lies about the Krays, glamorising them, treating them as heroes.'"

Back in 1969, the Kray twins older brother was only sentenced for 10 years. After his release, Charlie Krayreturned to crime and died in prison in 2000 while serving time for masterminding a £69m cocaine smuggling plot. I don't know if the less glamorous Kray brother ever picked up a paintbrush.

[ARTWORK to the left was done by Ron &
ARTWORK to the right was done by Reg]

SOURCES:
Chiswick auction prices
art auction dates provided by artnet.com (except the Chiswick auctions)
Chiswick auction
victim support group commenting on 2nd auction
kray conviction info
article about ronnie's open homosexuality
online chapter book about krays
star witness Teale brothers return after 42 years in hiding

Critic reviews my birdcage Art in Austin show

Last summer, I was invited to bring a series of artwork, artist statement & brief biography to Austin gallery Arthouse at the Jones Center to be critiqued by Chicago writer, Lori Waxman whose invitation "cannot guarantee a positive review." This objectivity sounded promising and I loaded up my birdcages & took a 20 minute part in her 3 day performance art installation where she analyzes, articulates & prints her reviews within an observable space with a assembly line style that takes nothing away from quality of art criticism written.

Selected reviews were printed in the local newspaper, the Austin American Statesman and online at Austin 360, copies were printed out within the 20 minute time frame and one print taped face out on the window of the gallery and the second given to the visual artist. This performance has been done in Chicago, Brooklyn, Knoxville and Queens previously and was underwritten through a grant from the Creative Capital / Warhol Foundation. Below you will find the performance description, pictures from the performance taken by Seth Cox, a copy of my Artist Statement for the series and transcription of the Art Critique by Waxman.

"Schroedinger's Birdcages" (2007)

Series in Four (4) Pairs [Red, Blue, White and Patina]
Assemblage [Found Object, Enamel, Glass, Filament and Paper}
Painting [Stenciled Aerosol on Board]

ARTIST STATEMENT - by Suza Kanon

Walls that protect also confine.

Schrödinger’s theory in quantum physics examines whether the observed object changes relative to its observation. Is the bird alive or dead, real or reproduction? In both media, linear repetition acts as both prison & stage. Flat birds defiantly swing in their 3d cages.

This studied comparison of buildup and decay gives form to birds in cages and stencils freed through the magic of negative space. Found objects rusted and decayed, layered in enamel and bits of shiny glass and mirror framing happy little paper bluebirds that may or may not peck your eyes out.

These birds have open means to escape but they choose to stay for us to watch. The observer is uncertain if the birds are returning or departing our field of vision. Perhaps this flight impulse is projected by the viewer. Relativity can be quite subjective. How deeply is existence influenced by the subjective perception of the observer? Have we limited ourselves by the very process of definition?


ARTWORK CRITIQUE by Lori Waxman [July 11, 2009 at 12:06 p.m. C.S.T]

Erwin Schroedinger, an Austrian physicist who founded the study of wave mechanics and won the Nobel Prize in 1933, has more recently given his name to a series of studies by artist Suza Kanon.

"Schroedingers Birdcages" is inspired by the physicist's questioning of how objects change in relation to their observation. In translating this relativist notion into sculptural and painterly media, Kanon has taken a route that looks wonderfully like Joseph Cornell's - she has put paper birds in open cages, along with bits of mirror. Of course, Cornell's purpose was nothing like Kanon's, or Schroedinger's for that matter - he was after a more idiosyncratic revelation of the extraordinary, and his odd juxtapositions continue to attract marveling today. But Kanon's tactic, meant to reveal how reality changes depending on the position of the observer - the birds seem alive from certain angles, depending on how they are caught in the dangling mirrors - also reveals something unexpected: the bird's point of view.

Because, although Kanon suggests that the birds stay in their cages so that we may better observe them, another way of looking at the situation is to imagine that the birds are so confused by the alternative realities reflected in the mirrors that they don't know what's free and what's locked up. They might also be fooled by the paintings Kanon has paired with each cage, which shows the birds floating free, up above any wire mesh. Maybe the birds believe what they see, and think they're already free. We live in a world of images, after all.


& here is the link to the npr interview they did during the show with the critic

here is the link if you want to read some of the other reviews she did in austin360.

60wrdmin.org

finding art in dallas

4 websites & 3 gallery lists you may find useful

WEBsources:

• www.glasstire.org (which covers DFW and other major Texas art communities)
• www.dallasartsrevue.com (who also has a fb page) founded by JR Compton
• Jim Mathis has a super handy weekly email newsletter you can join here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DallasArtOpenings/
• Marla Bane maintains the social networking site http://dfwartsalon.ning.com.

LISTs of DFW galleries:

The majority of traditional art galleries are listed at the DADA link below. For the more adventurous art aficionado, check out the galleries of DEEP and CADD.

Deep Ellum Art Galleries (DEEP) www.deepellumtexas.com

• Kettle Art – 2714 Elm
• Hal Samples Gallery – 2814 Main
• The Public Trust – 2919 Commerce
• Art Love Magic – 2630 Commerce
• Avenue Arts – 823 Exposition
• Alcantara Arts – 3011 Canton
• The Ravach Arts Company – 2816 Elm
• Mokah Art Gallery – 2803 Taylor
• Nomad Arts – 2616 Commerce
• Chi Studios – 807 Fletcher
• Art Park – Canton & Good Latimer
• Mural Project – Swiss & Good Latimer

Contemporary Art Dealers of Dallas (CADD) Galleries www.caddallas.net

• Conduit Gallery
• Craighead Green Gallery
• Dunn and Brown Contemporary
• Holly Johnson Gallery
• Marty Walker Gallery
• Mighty Fine Arts
• The Public Trust
• Valley House Gallery and Sculpture Garden

Dallas Art Dealers Association (DADA) has information on over 35 galleries in Dallas and the surrounding areas that can be found on their site:
http://www.dallasartdealers.org/downloads/dada_guide-0909.pdf

MARFA, TX (reposted from my travel archives)

[[reposting a few old travel blogs for my friend who is visiting marfa this week to do a video installation. i don't have time to add the pictures mentioned in the text, but most can be found in my flickr gallery (3 links at the end of the blog). i'll add the pix here on a later day, but its still fun, useful reading if you never been to west texas.]]

marfa texas road trip - chinati foundation open house weekend (written 2006)

 

http://photos.liveauctioneers.com/houses/resize/phillipsdepury/8968/0001_1_600_600.jpg
(limited edition print John Waters copyright 2003)


this blog lists why anyone would want to drive 9 hours into the west texas desert. the what, how to get to there, where to stay & what's to eat. the low down on the art scene is covered in the 2nd part of this blog below ;) Who knew marfa had any claim to fame aside from those mystical lights?

WHAT TO DO::

CHINATI FOUNDATION

Donald Judd, internationally renown minimalist artist must have known something. Judd with the help of the Al Dia Foundation (of NY) bought a ranch in the Chinati Mtns. "casa perez", "the Block" aka la mansana de chinati, a lovely storefront on Marfa's main drag Highland Avenue for the offices of his Chinati Foundation, and lest we forget the abandoned acreage of ex-military base, Ft. Russell to house the mammoth permanent installation of his & other notable artists' work.

Open House is an amazing rare moment one weekend a year where thousands of Texas outsiders (the international art culturati) descend on a tiny ranching community graced with monumental epic art installations. It's a site to behold, especially as a Texan. So many foreign tongues trying to interpret a rural snapshot of the Texas state. Judd's minimalist installations at Ft. Russell (aka Chinati Foundation) are a wonder of the modern world. Those cement blocks are the kind of epic construction to excite archaeologists for ages. www.chinati.org

CHINATI HOTSPRINGS

The Chinati Hot Springs are largely unknown, as they are off the beaten road in the Rio Grande valley near the Mexican border of the Chinati Mountains. The springs stay at a steady temperature of 110 F (43 C). Many forms of wildlife live in the desert near the springs, and bird watching is particularly interesting. You can take short walks or extensive hikes into the surrounding area to observe and photograph desert plants and animals, or just enjoy this rough and beautiful country of deep canyons, distinctive geological formations and stunning sunrises and sunsets. Star-gazing is at its very best in these dark and normally clear skies.

Five adobe cabins for people to stay the night were built in the 40's, maintained by a nonprofit who keep it privately run… lovely valley with canyon hikes, hammocks in trees, mineral water at 108 F degrees on tap. Stone pools, antiquated tile pools or rustic steel baths. Modern communal kitchen with enough amenities for a good nosh if bring your own groceries & vino. www.chinatihotsprings.com

[[2nd part of the blog tells about my visit to the hot springs the next year & scroll to the bottom for a link to my photo gallery of the springs]]

To get to the hot springs, take Hwy 90 to 2810. From there, travel about 20 mi (32 km) to Pinto Canyon Road. Much of the road is unpaved, so smaller vehicles may have problems getting through. It is about 50 mi (80 km) from Marfa. It is extremely steep and winding. If this road were a video game it would be the super advanced extra scary level. I loved it. The 40 ft. drop offs on an extremely narrow dirt road was exciting. It was like slowly driving on marbles along the edge of deadly peaks and canyon ridges. If you have a weak heart, take the longer way through Presidio (an extra hour). Not recommended at night or without a high clearance vehicle.

MYSTERY LIGHTS

The Marfa Mystery Lights has a public viewing center operated by TXDOT. They say the viewing center places the highway in between your line of vision and the actual lights. The locals also say its easier to see the lights driving east of town on Hwy 90 between Marfa and Alpine. I slept thru the trek to the see the lights (sadface). But almost everyone I saw swore they had seen something plain as day. Different colored lights chasing each other almost in the distance. Definitely my incentive to go back next year [[see 2nd part of this combined blog to hear about my visit to the viewing center]]. I don't want my x-files badge to get revoked . http://www.nightorbs.net/

MCDONALD OBSERVATORY

In Ft. Davis, just 20 minutes from Marfa in the Davis Mountains is the largest observatory in this region for several states (major telescope action!!). They have Star Parties that start at 9pm on Tues./Fri./Sat. September thru October for $10 per person. I suggest you get there early & do the Twilight Program hour long educational tour before hand at 7:30pm They have combo discounts for doing both. http://mcdonaldobservatory.org

SHAFTER GhostTOWN

Shafter is a real abandoned ghost town (est. 1880) used in multiple old westerns & "the andromeda strain".<> >Its about an hour southeast of Marfa. There are lots of abandoned structures and much mood. An old mining town shriveled up after the closing of Ft. Russell when WWII ended in the 40's. http://www.texasescapes.com/TexasGhostTowns/ShafterTexas/ShafterTexas.htm

PRADA MARFA

Prada is an international fashion house that I'm just sure you've heard of. You can't actually buy a pair of shoes at its Marfa location because it really just a deceptively simple, permanently enclosed art display located to the west near the town of Valentine. In 2005, the site specific installation was created by the artists Elmgreen and Dragset. It was broken into once but the vandals were probably disappointed trying to fence only the left shoes of the 2005 collection lol.  

HOW TO GET THERE

Marfa is in the middle of the West Texas Desert. About 2 hours East of Big Bend National Park. Driving from Dallas was about 9 ½ hours. If you want to fly near Marfa, you still have a 2 hour drive into town from either of the nearest airports (Midland or El Paso). Driving is a big part of this desert adventure. Taking Palo Canyon Rd. to the Chinati Hot Springs was terrifying and exhilarating but the views are amazing. It's a very long drive between civilization and Marfa. Only burgs are Abilene, Midland and Odessa… blink and you'll miss your only chance to keep a full tank of gas.

FOODING

The Brown Recluse has the most incredible freshly roasted coffee beans in Texas. You can order them online (100% organic & fair trade). They make each cup of joe, french press by hand & their breakfast menu & cappucino is a blessing in the desert. Only open Sat. & Sun. from 7am till 2pm. Indoor or patio seating. Hwy 90 West http://www.bigbendcoffee.com/

Mando's is on Hwy 90 too. They serve burgers & the worst Mexican food made by Mexicans ever. Cheese had run out by Friday afternoon for them. No bueno. Noted.

Food Shark on Highland Avenue was a shiny silver concession stand that served Middle Eastern fare. It had huge crowds all weekend. I didn't join them this time.

I did find myself at Marfa Burritos on Hwy 67 South across from our camping backyard. Greatest burrito for $3 ever & limonada para gratis. Older couple running the show with no English between the two of them. She taught her customers Spanish with the hola tour and a quick point at ingredients. 3 kinds of salsa, and burritos the size of pillows. Muy excellente!! 6 am – 6pm Sat & Sun (don't let the outside fool you)

Gallery Hopping day brought much walking on the town square and regretfully leaving my sunscreen at camp. By the time the desert caught up with me I was glad to have a moments rest at the marfa oasis… Squeeze Juicebar. So urbane it takes 6 adjectives to order a vitamin infused smoothy. Highland Ave. (Sat & Sun 9am – 2pm)

[[my review of the Pizza Foundation is in the 2nd part of this combined blog below from my visit the following year]]

There is junk food like Dairy Queen (who offers free wi-fi) & the Subway in the gas station. But everything closes super early and many restaurants run out of ingredients by Sunday. There were very few cigarettes for sale as well.

Sunday afternoon we abandoned the crowds & stopped at the historic Ft. Davis Drugstore on the way back East. Old fashioned fountain drinks like egg creams & milk shakes to die for. Sit at the counter & the waitresses call you hon'.

WHERE TO STAY

Reservations at hotels in Marfa or surrounding Marathon, Alpine and Ft. Davis should be made many months in advance, from chains to dives all hotels are all full. The weeks prior to the big weekend, the chamber of commerce keep a list of hotel room cancellations & waiting lists.

Marfa is the center of the action open house weekend. This tiny ranching town has a typical Texas square layout with the Presidio County Courthouse in the center. Most of the 20 or so galleries are walking distance from downtown. Many are out of town, nomads showing for the wknd.

There is great camping in both the Ft. Davis mountains (State Park 1 hour away) and Big Bend (National Park 2 ½ hours away).

The Palace Hotel is the posh bed in town stayed in by the likes of James Dean & Liz Taylor during the months they stayed in Marfa filming "Giant". $230ish a night, lovely bar downstairs in the gilded lobby.

Thunderbird Motel is a very nicely renovated $200 a night place even though it's a u shaped drive up. They loan their guests bikes & typewriters. The hotel's bar, Thunderbird Lounge had good conversation and the best beer selection in that town. The hotel offered great maps for visiting art pilgrim.  No restaurant on premises but they have a tamale vendor on Open House weekend and a bitching rock band Friday night (flyer tagline: WAXPLOITATION! 3dys *Soul Funk*psychOdelia "meet the beautiful people who live… and die in a freaky, try anything world… printed on brown kraft paper with op-art moiré backgrounds and naked pinup girl)

The town of Alpine sounds like a good pick. Its is a German settlement with wonderful food from the region. They are clever enuf to schedule their Oktoberfest to coincide with Open House weekend. Thank you. Apparently the best views of the mystery lights are south of highway 90 between marfa & alpine anytime after dark.

Rustic cabins at the Chinati Hot Springs are on my wishlist for next year. If you skipped the section as a destination above. Scroll back & think warm thoughts of hot mineral water.

But this is all afterthought. Our reservations were mysteriously cancelled by Overland Trails cabins in Ft. Davis. Thankfully we brought airmattresses & snuggly things for the frigid 40 degree desert nights. Big love to dollar general on Hwy 90 for cheap linens & mattress pads. We ended up staying at a campground suggested by the marfa chamber of commerce. its full of sunflowers & awesome.

It seemed to be a converted backyard & adjoining acreage with rv hookups. The lovely couple who lived in the master house were bilingual and very accommodating about of our lack of tent. Coincidentally they had a spare already set up in the backyard for out of town guests. $10 a night. Shower facility was adequate on hostel standards. As many tents that popped up in the little shanty town, there was never really a bad line for the facilities. Like a night in the dorms. Lol The communal outdoor kitchen was wonderfully practical.

We were a little weirded out by the lack of room service. But the bounty of nic-nak-bric-a-brak was surreal & uplifting. Trolls & mushrooms & many many sunflowers on every surface. I liked having the tent 10 feet from the fire ring because it was under the only shade trees on the property. But the karaoke singing around the campfire at 3 am was unavoidable for this voyeur. I had to wake up & see to the clatter…giggle with the kids from Austin. good times.


marfa 2008 chinati open house

This year's Chinati Open House in Marfa Texas was held from Friday October 5 through Sunday October 7 officially. Unofficially, its an entire international art week squirreled away in the surreal landscape of the West Texas desert. Private Cessna's bring the collectors and carpools of artists and academics start pouring in days before the weekend and even we didn't find ourselves headed East of Marfa until the following Tuesday. Shhh… don't tell anyone; we don't want THEM all to come to our little secret.

I'd like you to know … whenever you are trekking out into the unknown desert or planning to be stranded on a desert island (whichever comes first of course), definitely bring all that you will need to be comfortable and best able to express your creativity.

Just like last year, no matter how intricately I planned and juggled my schedule there are still places on my must-see list that I never found enough time to get to. Because once you hit Marfa, activity swirls by in fast forward without much of a sweat as the location has this halcyon effect on time where the day leisurely unfolds before your feet. It's the carnival of art fair week without so much desperation of overtly vulgar commerce. Clean white gallery rooms, desert horizons that climb into endless sky, a dichotomy in the art of the void compared to the rural simplicity of a ranching community.

And so, next year I must return to see the Shafter Ghost Town, Luz de Estrella Winery, Casa Perez and the McDonald Observatory's Thursday night fundraiser/stargazing party. But this year we did make it to some wonderful places that now I will share with you. This blog includes reviews of art by MC Farris, curation by SF gallery Queens Nail Annex, a performance by Sonic Youth and more creativity in the desert than you would ever expect to find in a place like Texas.

My absolute favorite show in Marfa this year was the nomadic exhibit at the Waypoint location curated by Queens Nail Annex from San Francisco. Amazing art, great crowd, divine video installation including work by Christian Marclay. Photography by Jim Jocoy included at booklet offering an interview with the artist by curator Audrey Marrs: "One of the great aspects of Punk is that it has the power to bring the performers and artists, who would otherwise be regarded as icons, down to the level of their audience. In your work, an opposite movement seems to take place in which the average party-goer looks like a superstar. But it goes beyond this, its almost as if you are drawn to anyone, celebrity or not, who is a celebrity in their own mind. Very much, I guess celebrity suggests someone with something special. People's beauty and style are special and an inspiration for me. If you dress for attention, I'll give it to you…..When you see someone with style, its easier to take a good photo. I guess as writer Kurt Vonnegut said, 'You are what you pretend to be.' I'll pretend I'm a fashion photographer and you can be the supermodel. It works all the time."


Julie Speed opened up her Marfa Studio to us for Open house weekend. I'm pretty sure I first saw her work in Austin which seems to be her alternative home base. Her illustrations are distinctive, but I really connected to her surrealist assemblage shadowboxes. www.juliespeed.com Open Studio on El Paso Street and ongoing exhibit at Galleri Urbane on San Antonio @ Russell in Marfa till February 2008.

One of my favorite finds this trip was artist, M.C. Farris. I have a weakness for things on canvas with a street flavor. Pop iconography, classic tattoo imagery done in way that defies me to reveal my suspicions of Mr. Farris's graffiti detailings. M.C. Farris www.blindluckindustries.com graduated with a MFA from our very own Commerce in 1998 before going on to the creative hot bed that is Skowhegan. Legend has it he has now moved all the way to Brooklyn, or at least left his mark there. There are TONS of pix of his work in my flickr gallery and I'm embarrassed that my notes do not include the name of the space in Marfa that shared his work with us. Bad blogger. Bad. Of course, the lapse in memory may be due to the number of nomadic galleries set up in empty houses or business locations during the art week.

Ike E. Turner is a simple man who makes wonderful paintings full of fun color and simple images. I have adored his work for years. The Webb's were in Marfa last year at the Do Right space and it was an essential stop on my trip. http://webbartgallery.com/artist/ike/ike.html

Its about time for my pilgrimage to Waxahachie for a visit to the anchor location of the Webb Gallery. They specialize in outsider art and amazing primitives. Their personal collection of folk art, freak show posters & tent revival hangings are a testament to the human creative spirit. But Ike is really something special.

Trying to explain that unique spark to someone that doesn't get art frustrates me. Know how you always think of something more clever to say the day past the confrontation? Having a blog lets you do it over. I have a lot of respect for people that work with their hands, use tools, manufacture and craft tangible objects. The spark can be in that, those few times it a unique process or design. Otherwise the handicraft of a fine art object is inherently owed to the designer, the architect, the conceptual developer. Without the spark of that idea, there would be no plan to create.

When I hear, "Oh I could do that, my 12 year old paints like that, bla bla bla"… we must remember that anyone might but they don't. they never learned how, they never practiced, they never continued, they never opened the conduit of inspiration. The artist designs and births in repetition, creating objects for the sake of art itself. Making art for me personally is catharsis. I literally dream about my work as it is developed. Synchronicity brings me the ephemera to pull apart and put back together as a new thing, oddly decayed and reinforced glistening.

I got into such an ugly argument about this at the Thunderbird (do note christy's opinion of my handling of the situation in the pic above lol). It's the one where I'm making the face that says "no, the guy that poured the concrete isn't as much an artist as the architect or engineer." I had one of those moments where I said ciao and took my crew elsewhere where I might find the multitude of others in town with a like mind. But I look back at the Thunderbird Lounge as a great time, sporting conversation and the best beer selection in that town. The hotel has great maps for visiting art pilgrims and their rooms offer complimentary bikes and typewriters with your room.

So we continued over to Building 98 next to the Chinati Foundation and just down the street from our tent set up under the very old leafy tree at the corner of 67 and Madrid. We had the greatest camping spot in the history of ever. Two tents, one hammock and picnic basket, each of us with a bike, a chair and a sleeping bag. I rode the bike strapped with the picnic basket for our road trips and my companion's bike basket carried my porto-bar case from the 50's. Our hosts had both bathhouse and communal kitchen with what may have been a Spanish speaking saint slow cooking chiles and pork in a black cauldron over an open fire all afternoon. Heaven is a barely day old chipotle pork with plenty of lime, rice & hominy for less than $5. Health department be damned, it was worth the accepted risk.

The exhibit at Bldg. 98 was curated by Wayne Gilbert and offered a room called ApocaLYPSTICK. The space had an exquisite variety of good art, places to lounge and someone's version of the ryder project. Excellent video installation by Ramzy Telley featuring the gruesome viscerality of the Angola Prison Rodeo. http://www.rodeocircusfilms.com/ The same room had floor to higher than high ceiling draped fabric hangings painted by Bill Hailey. I also noticed the delightfully surreal bird paintings by artist Ryan Geiger whom I helped represent in Miami last December.

The brilliant project the Velcro Van was listed as a "mobile gallery of miniature art" and featured fabric sculpture and hanging pieces affixed to the interior and exterior walls of the van that had been completely covered in Velcro. Hosted by Lorna Leedy of www.fancyponyland.com/ and Caroline Rankin with Shark Safari, the van offered tequila and champagne, great music and a multitude of small scale fabric art by crafty b!tches Victoria Cabrera, ricki hill, Katherine Shaughnessy, Carol Cutshall, MatJames among others. We caught up with the van at the shop Delores (next door to the Brown Recluse coffee shop). This local shop not only carried some of the work featured on the van in addition of custom handmade clothing, retro goodness, bike rentals, gifty nik-naks and one of a kind furniture like the plexi enclosed day glo tumbleweed coffee tables.

I was unimpressed with this year's display at a certain local marfa gallery mainstay on San Antonio that was so very good last year that I am not going to print their name for this year's infraction. Not enough risk taking in the curation and I found myself compelled to escape through a nearby window and make my way out through the backyard of the gallery much to the surprise of the girls with me. They were the only ones in the room at the time, and one did comment that it turned out to be a surprisingly graceful exit.

Next, I was brought back to my senses at the Eugene Binder gallery offering me a selection featuring Kiki Smith, Carl Fudge, Sara Ishii among others. Other good shows that I did not need to seek escape routes from, but rather was impressed enough to note here for your review included three or four other galleries showing works by Texas Biennial artist Tom Matthews, San Antonio's Gary Sweeney, and the inventive portrait photographer John Langford from Austin www.johnlangford.com LOVEd the mobile video installation genius of www.brink.com

One of the most interesting audio performances i saw in marfa was by Noisefold who creates the most wonderful improvisational sound/video collages. These two musicians from New Mexico had macs modded with motion sensitive, theremin-like detectors and a freshly built 20' X 10' projection screen artfully stretched over a custom frame. Those clever fellows even customized the look of their software making generic the controls, hiding the wizard behind the curtain just like djs who cover their labels. The Tillie Arts Gallery is just behind Dairy Queen before the railroad tracks. Just when the guys got the beats all worked up, a freight train came tearing through with its high decibel whistle and chugging wheels of steel, grinding away. Not even blinking, the duo improvised and played off the relentless industrial noise much to my delight. That was me hopping up and down like a kid on Christmas. completely dug the theremin action with the laptops. brilliant and very performance friendly working with the x and y axis of the theremin concept. & who says electronic noise isn't fun to watch? www.myspace.com/noisefold

Sonic Youth solidly delivered to an enormous crowd of art hipsters, rocker mod students and wishfully detached collectors. The energy in the performance was palatable. I can't say they played a room since the building is incomplete with large open bay doors, exposed walls and a wide courtyard in back. The front lot was even shoulder to shoulder during the performance. As undone as the building itself was, the stage was professionally equipped and the band rocked like it didn't matter who we were or where any of us were. They even played an encore I'm told they still made it to their gig the next night at House of Blues in Dallas. http://www.discogs.com/artist/Sonic+Youth

I didn't make most of the afterparty because I was not going to miss my mystery light quest this time. Last year the reviewer from artnet made such a serious face when I laughed at his experience with the lights, how can I be skeptic if I have never tried. So, a friend and I went to the viewing station and noticed an abundance of distant traffic lights and twinkling cellphone towers. The locals insisted in my research that it was necessary to drive all the way to Alpine on 90 to get away from the man made illumination. An open mind and a suspension of disbelief locked in, I can't tell you for sure just what we saw moving out there. red lights and a few white ones, not quite sure what it was. It was fun like ghost stories around a campfire. Just promise me you'll get gas before you hit the road into the desert ;) http://www.nightorbs.net/

On Sunday morning I slept in after the afterparty for the Sonic Youth afterparty where I stayed up way too late catching up with the editor of Artlies, the lovely and clever Miss Gupta. It was awesome catching the end of the first afterparty though. I got only one abstract picture of the pink bunny suit after the gallery's band. Best surprise was running into Tomas who generously offered to find me a ride with a friend (who turned out to be Anjali!). My traveling companions went on to breakfast at Foundation Arena without me (love you ladies!!).

I'd been to the foundation last year and really only had interest if they were displaying the new work, hopefully by this year's lecturer Andrea Zittell. I was still pretty disappointed that the Chinati/Judd whatever hadn't organized overflow seating for the lecture series this year. I had zero desire in fighting a crowd for limited seats at the readings and lectures that included David Adjaye, Trevor Smith and a conversation between David Rabinowitch and Kenneth Baker. We'll hope they work that out next time.

The threat of a rainstorm encouraged us to pack up camp instead of rushing to the Judd Ranch's barbeque down Pinto Canyon Road. We opted for the intimacy of the Chinati Hot Springs and their simple communal kitchen that has camping luxuries like a divine ice machine and whatever kitchen gadget your heart desires.

Even though most people we met had a cellphone that worked in the city limits of Marfa proper. It is important to note that neither Christy's satellite radio nor my cellphone worked in the depths and precipices on the unpaved way to the Chinati Mountains. We ran into the nicest German family on our way to the Chinati Hot Springs taking the treacherously thrilling Pinto Canyon Road. It is so interesting to see a group of strangers working together to figure out how the rental car jack and spare work. & Mr. Beech loves his mother ;) Everything worked out in the end and we didn't have to deliver any messages in a bottle. ="">

We were able to get our tent up at the Hot Springs before sundown and those stranded travelers were rescued by a couple of friendly and handy local gentlemen. Kindness of strangers is a good thing.

On our way back to civilization, we passed through Ruidosa and Presidio taking the longer distanced, less exciting, shorter travel time path back to Marfa. We were graced the pleasure of road food by the Pizza Foundation. They only custom craft around 20 pies a day because they see it as art. I was puzzled that they were closed during the high traffic weekend earlier. They felt the crowds an imposition with their demands and hurry. It was great hearing deliveries scheduled for the single delivery boy's time. "We have an opening for a pizza at 7:30, we hope that reservation works for you." As pretentious as it sounds, they were right. Their pizza IS art and they can take whatever liberties they choose. I've had pie in Chicago, Miami and Brooklyn and this little place in the middle of nowhere is AMAZING. High quality gourmet ingredients that make one glad for the existence of miracles in the desert.

marfa is a beautiful thing, but its capacity crowds are fickle and unpredictable. the magic of marfa is the simplicity. its not quantity but quality. there may only be 3 people in the room. one of them may be an editor for the largest art mag in the country. or a rock star art collector, or whatever. its an amazing thing to observe. but much like a flash mobs, rooms fill up quick and restaurants close when they run out of food for the day. reservations are your friend.

flicker gallery of marfa 2006

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79115451@N00/sets/72157594345209447/

flicker gallery of marfa 2008

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79115451@N00/sets/72157602704412670

flickr gallery of chinati hot springs

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79115451@N00/sets/72157602706881837/

performance art, curiosity & the 4th wall

So recently between camera issues & computer problems, I haven’t been reviewing as much as is my habit. But I experienced a couple of wonderful pieces of conceptual artwork and I ‘d like to share even if I haven't figured out the picture features of posting this blog.

Right now in Xpo park you can walk to the other side of the street & at the UTD artists residency known as the gallery CentralTrak you can look to the right front corner of the roof & see a bronze sculpture perched up there. It appears to be a bomb with bird legs.

It was done by the artist known as Dadara Thinktank from Amsterdam. I first became familiar with his work last spring when the same gallery showed his interactive performance installation known as Dreamyourtopia. Here is a link to the website for the project where I suggest you take a look at the applications on pdf that guests have submitted when participating at exhibitions, as well as photographs from the four events. http://www.dadara.nl/checkpoint/ -or- http://www.dreamyourtopia.com/

This was not an average art opening last January. The promotional links said that a completed application from each guest would be required. It was highly dadist in questioning over two pages and they encouraged a picture or self portrait of the applicant be included in the passport photo sized box on the form.

The gallery space was modified so that guests were required to enter through the back entrance … and get in a line. One of many lines & cues I might confess.

Now you are probably thinking, why I hate lines & forms. Yes we do. Hell yes we do. & why would you want to voluntarily do so on your free time? Because this is different.

This is a social experiment of sorts. One line lead to another line & to another… Put strangers in confined places together. Make them jump thru hoops, edit their applications, read from children’s books aloud, be next in line. Tell them which way to face. Some people did not enjoy this, their torment was other’s amusement. Some of us have fun on the journey and questioned interrogators & played with the other captives & shared flasks. Social strata all removed, all applicants stood together in line.

But to what purpose are all lines & forms? With these concrete tools we have a path to flow through the system, to make things happen. And sometimes we see the loopholes & honesty that are required to subvert the system. I always subscribed to William Burrough’s theory about wearing a suit as a costume required to work under the radar of the uptight system so we might subvert & improve it. We don’t want to fit in. We want to confuse their ideas about reading a book by its cover. There are many costumes in this life.

So I got no pictures of that fantastic showing in Dallas. Not of the snaking lines of people. Not of the enclosed border crossing station that was solidly constructed of wood, reminiscent of old cold war movies. Not of the typical gallery opening that followed the at least seven earlier lines. When I arrived in the main gallery, I was overcome with the desire to do it all again, only backwards. So my friend who had wandered in the exit door & I snuck around the building housing the border crossing & did all the lines backwards. Installed ourselves and systematically did it in reverse. The people waiting in line the first time that saw us pass through were baffled.

Since that time, I have made a new friend or two. Two of which are a lovely couple of performance artists that are currently abroad till this time next year. We met at a body painting night Tigger hosted at our friend’s place. People all come with food & drink to share. The host provided the paints, brushes & inspiration. Guests were welcome to wear whatever they like or be used as a nude canvas if they prefer. This is not really of a sexual nature but is more a celebration of the human form. Painters & canvases come in all ages & sizes and are accepted as a beautiful human being to be embellished.


The monthly events have included the art of body painting as well as fire spinning by the host as well as our other friends who play with poi & light. The pictures are by a French photographer http://www.thomassubtil.com/ . You can also see Tigger’s set of pictures on flickr but they won't let me link them here due to the tasteful nudity (or maybe I just can't work this blog yet lol) and you can see them by clicking >here<

I bring Tigger into this story for two reasons. He participated in the final exhibition of the Dreamyourtopia installation in Berlin as well as applying at its earlier showing on the playa in Black Rock City. He gave me his Dreamyourtopia Passport before he left on his trip and I was shocked & thrilled & thought I was going to get a little weepy there but it was terribly terribly nice for him to share this piece of his experience with me. He says he has seen it four times. here is a link to his photo’s from the last installation of Dreamyourtopia done on the 20th anniversary of the falling of the Berlin Wall.

For the final exhibit, Dreamyourtopia was created in a public pool in Berlin. During the opening, some people waited in those lines for over four & half hours. There was near riot. People were kicking holes through the plywood I am told. Now on Dadara’s blog you can get more inside information about this closing because I’m not exactly sure how the sequence of the next part of the story goes as I heard of the incident secondhand. dreamyourtopia.blogspot.com

All I know is at some point they brought in graffiti artists & tagged up the entire installation structure. Then they brought in the sledgehammers & went to it. Turned the entire thing into rubble. Love it.

So when the same artist returned to Dallas to show his BirdBomb, I had to be there. Ran into Tigger & the lovely Rebecca in a long hallway in the exhibit space where carefully crafted wooden boxes called sonic mnemonics by Patrick Murphy encouraged opening the doors & allowing the music box to be heard and delicate painting to be seen. http://www.utdallas.edu/centraltrak

Then suddenly our attention is caught by a little curly haired blonde boy about 3 or 4 years of age, who is standing at the far end of the hallway calling us, telling us we have to “Come see. Come see.” He is pointing into an open doorway at the end of the hall to the side. And being three of the most curious adults in the room, we scamper down to see what is behind door number one. Its an amazing light installation built onto a metal stand of some sort, covered in club lights, disco balls, lasers, smoke machines and an unfortunately not being used margarita machine. It had amazing controls for the operator like a video game & I was gushing verbally over it as I tend to do and out of the darkness the creator says thank you. I ask him to turn alllll the lights on it. & its fabulous & twinkling & such a nice surprise. We tell him so & suggest he put it on wheels.

Out on the back patio of Central Trak there was a set of three “dry” waterboards in a performance installation by a different artist, this one from Denton, named Angel Cabrales. Surfboards on an incline stand with straps for the combatant. & guarding this detention set up was a group of kids probably aged 3-5. known as the Blackwater Junior Corps, the kids were dressed in desert combat fatigues & carried little plastic guns with red laser sights. It was incredibly creepy. http://www.angelcabrales.com/



I don’t know what part I liked more. Guests volunteered to be strapped down by the little interrogators, have fake guns pointed in their face & having a tyke scream “what’s your favorite color?” But there was something surreal about watching a four year old dance around trying to catch the projections of a couple of laser sights, not because he was instructed to but because he is just a curious kid in a crazy world.